Wonders of Ulva
Itinerary Ideas for the car-free, community-owned island of Ulva in Scotland’s Inner Hebrides
The South Coast Walk
A walk through Ulva’s history and wildlife, from the island’s modern renaissance through abandoned clearance villages. The path climbs through broad-leaved forests and past resident Highland cattle, while sea eagles circle above the shimmering Atlantic. If you go early its possible to see seals basking in the bay. It is a dramatic, lonely landscape where few visitors venture far along the path. A 13km out and back walk.
The Boathouse Restaurant
Situated next to the ferry jetty, The Boathouse serves a menu dictated by what the island’s fishermen land on the doorstep. Expect lobster, langoustines, and crab alongside freshly baked bread and a surprisingly curated wine list. There are no bookings; you simply arrive, find a seat, and eat what the sea has provided that morning.
The Clearance Villages and ‘Starvation Terrace’
An out-and-back route along the southern coast leads to the remains of Ormaig and Kilvekewen clearance villages. These are the evocative stone ruins of a time when the island supported 600 people across 16 villages. On the northern side of the island lies Starvation Terrace, where the elderly or disabled were relocated during the clearances, to a row of low houses at Ardglass Point. Left destitute, they were forced to eke out an existence on winkles (sea snails) and seaweed until they passed away.
Livingstones Cave
Livingstone's Cave is a raised sea cave associated with the grandfather of explorer Dr. David Livingstone, who farmed on the island and reportedly lived in the cave while building their local cottage. The cave is being excavated by the University of Edinburgh (two archaeologists pictured) who have uncovered Mesolithic shell middens, human remains, and animal bones that prove the cave was occupied as early as 7,000 to 8,000 years ago.
The cave can be reached via the moderate 5.1-mile Livingstone walk.
Stay Off-Grid at a Bothy
With its wilderness and beautiful coastline, Ulva is a great place to go off-grid. There are two bothies available to rent on the island, Cragaig (where I stayed) on the south side and Bearnus on the north side. Both are reached by a 4-5 mile walk from the ferry jetty. These properties are off-grid and offer basic but cosy accommodation with no electricity, no neighbours, and unlimited peace.
Creative Commons image. Geograph Project. Richard Webb
Gometra - Ulva’s Sister Island
Gometra lies immediately west of Ulva and is connected to it by a small bridge and a tidal ford. The two islands are frequently linked due to their close proximity and shared history. A rugged 8-mile walk from the Ulva ferry leads to Gometra, a small island community of three households committed to a low-impact lifestyle: with no mains electricity, shops, or broadband.
TRAVEL BRIEFING
From Oban, take the ferry to Mull. Drive 45 minutes from Craignure along the single-track road flanking Loch na Keal to reach the Ulva Ferry.
Vehicles are not permitted on Ulva; parking is available on the Mull mainland.
The passenger ferry operates on demand for the three-minute journey. Flip the wooden sign at the jetty to red to signal the ferryman.