Wonders of Ulva
Ideas for your Itinerary
A car-free, community-owned island in the Inner Hebrides.
Walk the Clearance Villages
ORMAIG AND KILVEKEWEN
An out-and-back route along the southern coast leads to the remains of Ormaig and Kilvekewen clearance villages. These are the stone skeletons of a time when the island supported 600 people across 16 villages. Walking through these long-abandoned settlements feels like moving through a time capsule of forgotten Highland life.
Eat the Catch
THE BOATHOUSE
Situated next to the ferry jetty, The Boathouse serves a menu dictated by what the island’s fishermen land on the doorstep. Expect lobster, langoustines, and crab alongside freshly baked bread and a surprisingly curated wine list. There are no bookings; you simply arrive, find a seat, and eat what the sea has provided that morning.
Stay Off-Grid
THE SOUTHERN BOTHIES
With its wilderness and beautiful coastline, Ulva is a great place to go off-grid. There are two bothies available to rent on the island, Cragaig on the south side and Bearnus on the north side. Both are reached by a 4-5 mile walk from the ferry jetty. Both properties are off-grid and offer basic but cosy accommodation with no electricity, no neighbours, and unlimited peace.
Cragaig Bothy (Read about my stay at Cragaig Bothy here)
Walk the Coast
THE SOUTHERN PATH
A walk through Ulva’s history, from abandoned clearance villages to the island’s modern renaissance. The path climbs through broad-leaved forests and past resident Highland cattle, while sea eagles circle above the shimmering Atlantic. It is a dramatic, lonely landscape where few visitors venture far along the path. A 13km out and back walk.
Creative Commons image. Geograph Project. Richard Webb
Explore Gometra
ULVA’S SISTER ISLAND
Gometra lies immediately west of Ulva and is connected to it by a small bridge and a tidal ford. The two islands are frequently linked due to their close proximity and shared history. A rugged 8-mile trek from the Ulva ferry leads to Gometra, a small island community of three households committed to a low-impact lifestyle: with no mains electricity, shops, or broadband.
PRACTICALITIES
The Route From Oban, take the ferry to Mull. Drive 45 minutes from Craignure along the single-track road flanking Loch na Keal to reach the Ulva Ferry.
The Arrival Vehicles are not permitted on Ulva; parking is available on the Mull mainland.
The Crossing The passenger ferry operates on demand for the three-minute journey. Flip the wooden sign at the jetty to red to signal the ferryman.
