The Wild Side of Scotland’s North Coast 500
The wildest sections of the North Coast 500 in 4 days
The North Coast 500 is a cinematic road trip that clings to Scotland’s northernmost coastline, weaving through rugged mountains, and dramatic coastal vistas.
Many travellers consider the west coast section to be the highlight of the North Coast 500: and I would agree. The sense of freedom, and wild landscapes leave you wanting to repeat the journey as soon as it ended.
Here is my off-script itinerary for those who want to experience just the west coast of the North Coast 500 in 4 days—leaving plenty of time to take in this extraordinary landscape.
The route returns to Inverness along the A838, a largely empty and spectacular stretch of road thats not on the radar of most NC500 drivers.
What follows is four days of untamed beauty—best savoured slowly, windows down, with senses fully engaged.
Day One: Entering the Wild North
INVERNESS TO APPLECROSS
Morning: Drive across the Black Isle to Lochcarron. Lunch at the Rockvilla Hotel. Possible visit to Eilean Donan Castle. Afternoon: Continue to the village of Achintraid with its views over Loch Kishorn. Continue, climbing upwards over the dramatic Bealach na Ba (Gaelic for Pass of the Cattle), which is also known as the Applecross Pass. The road is the third highest in Britain at over 2000 feet. Pause for those awe-inspiring views across Raasay and the Isle of Skye. Stay: The Applecross Inn.
Day Two: Into the Mountains
APPLECROSS TO ULLAPOOL
Morning: Drive along the banks of Loch Torridon, and through the Beinn Eighe National Nature Reserve–a great place for hiking and wildlife viewing. Continue to the villages of Shieldaig and Kinlochewe. Possible stop at the Inverewe Gardens, a paradise of unusual and wonderful plants, created from a barren wilderness in the 19th century. Lunch at The Kinlochewe Hotel. Afternoon: Continue through Aultbea (Gaelic: An t-Allt Beithe), a small fishing village on the shores of Loch Ewe, and on to Ullapool. Stay:The Royal Hotel, Ullapool.
Day Three: Untamed Coastlines
ULLAPOOL TO DURNESS
Morning: Drive on the A893 towards Durness, don’t miss Achnahaird Beach, an almost-white sand beach that requires a slight detour. Other options are a walk in the ancient Knockan Crag National Nature Reserve or a visit to the ruin ofArdvreck Castle, once owned by the Macleods of Assynt Clan Lunch: The Eddrachilles Hotel The highlight of this section for me was a visit to Badcall Bay and Kylesku Harbour, just off the main road. Stay:The Old Manse Cottage, Durness. Smoo Cave is a popular and worthwhile visit while in Durness.
A838 to Lairg
Day Four: The Wild Return
DURNESS TO INVERNESS (VIA THE A838)
Morning: Drive the scenic A838 back to Laxford Bridge (30 minutes of pleasure), turn left, and continue on this remote and spectacular stretch of the A838 to Lairg (1.45 hours). Lunch at Greens in Dornach. Call at the Glenmorangie Distillery for a Whisky tasting (ask for a takeaway pack for the driver) and/or visit the lavish Dunrobin Castle. Drive back to Inverness. Stay: :at the AC Hotel by Marriott. For Whisky lovers drive a little further to the wonderful Mash Tun in Aberlour.
The route
PRACTICALITIES
Summer Season
If you plan to experience the North Coast 500 during the peak summer season, it’s wise to book accommodation well in advance.
Shoulder seasons
May and September offer a quieter alternative. I travelled the route with my family in early May—hotel availability was good, and the roads were not busy. The weather can be changeable though: on Bealach na Bà high pass at Applecross, we drove through torrential rain: hence the lack of photographs from that section.